Drilling into concrete can feel frustrating, especially when your bit gets stuck, overheats, or barely makes a dent. Whether you’re hanging shelves, installing anchors, or working on a remodeling project, getting through solid concrete isn’t just about pushing harder — it’s about using the right method.
The short answer? You need a hammer drill, a masonry bit, and a slow, steady technique that gives your tool time to do its job. Rushing it won’t make the hole faster — it’ll just wear out your bit or overheat the motor. But with a few smart tips, even a total beginner can make clean, accurate holes in concrete without damaging walls or tools.
This blog post covers exactly what tools you need, how to prepare, and what techniques make the process smoother and safer.
What tools do you need to drill into concrete?
To drill concrete effectively, you need a hammer drill, masonry bit, dust control setup, and basic protective gear.
A standard drill won’t cut it. You need a hammer drill because it combines rotary motion with percussive force, pounding as it spins. This action breaks up the dense material so your drill bit can dig deeper.
Masonry bits are different from regular twist bits — they’re tipped with tungsten carbide and built to withstand the abrasiveness of concrete, brick, or stone. You’ll often see them labeled for use with concrete or masonry on the packaging.
You also need:
- Safety glasses to block dust and debris
- Work gloves to reduce vibration and keep your grip
- Dust mask or respirator (especially for indoor drilling)
- Vacuum or dust extractor to control airborne particles
- Tape measure, pencil, and level to mark and plan precisely
- Compressed air or a hand blower to clear dust from holes before inserting anchors
If your job involves deep holes or rebar, a rotary hammer may be necessary. These are heavy-duty tools designed for industrial-level concrete penetration and can cut through reinforced slabs.
Can you drill into concrete with a regular drill?
It’s possible, but not practical for anything deeper than ½ inch or more than one or two holes.
A regular drill doesn’t deliver enough impact force to break through dense aggregate and cement. You’ll likely end up overheating the motor, dulling the bit, or damaging your drill.
If you must use a regular drill, choose a masonry bit and expect a much slower process. You’ll need to stop often to cool the bit, clean the hole, and rest the motor. Even then, it might not be enough for older or reinforced concrete.
For best results — especially with thicker slabs or exterior walls — go with a hammer drill. Most hardware stores rent them if you don’t want to invest in one.
What is the correct technique for drilling into concrete?
Start slow, keep your bit cool, and don’t force it — let the hammering action break the concrete bit by bit.
Here’s how to approach it step-by-step:
- Mark your spot using a pencil or marker. Use a level if alignment matters.
- Start with a pilot hole if your anchor requires a wide diameter. Begin with a smaller bit (¼ inch or smaller), then move up in size.
- Use a hammer drill with masonry bit, set to the hammering mode (not regular drilling).
- Hold the drill steady, perpendicular to the surface. Don’t tilt or angle it, or the hole will widen or veer off-center.
- Drill in short bursts, applying firm pressure — not excessive force. Let the drill do the work.
- Stop every 10–15 seconds to clear dust, cool the bit, and check depth. Use compressed air or a vacuum nozzle to clean the hole.
- Switch to a larger bit if you’re expanding the hole. Follow the same process.
- Insert anchors or screws, using a mallet if necessary to seat them tightly.
For deeper holes, you may encounter aggregate or rebar. If you hit rebar and don’t have a rebar cutter or rotary hammer, reposition slightly and try again.
How deep can you drill into concrete?
You can drill as deep as your bit and drill allow — but most residential tasks stay within 2 to 4 inches.
Depth depends on your bit length, anchor type, and project needs. Most wall-mounted anchors only need 1½ to 2 inches of depth. For heavy loads, like shelves or brackets, use longer anchors and deeper holes — sometimes up to 4 inches.
Rotary hammers can handle much deeper holes — even 12 inches or more — which are common for structural bolts or industrial anchors.
Always drill at least ¼ inch deeper than the length of the anchor or screw to allow room for dust and full insertion.
What to do if the drill bit gets stuck in concrete?
If your bit binds in the hole, stop immediately and reverse the drill slowly to loosen it.
Forcing it can bend the bit or break it off. A stuck bit usually means dust buildup, hitting rebar, or uneven pressure.
Here’s how to deal with it:
- Reverse spin gently to try and back it out
- Tap the drill lightly (not the bit) while reversing
- If stuck deep, pull the drill off and use pliers to rotate the bit manually
- In severe cases, a rotary hammer in chisel mode can help break the surrounding concrete
To prevent this next time, drill in shorter bursts and clear dust often.
Why does my drill bit smoke or turn red while drilling?
Overheating happens when the bit is spinning too fast, not clearing dust, or hitting a tough spot like aggregate.
A glowing or smoking bit is a warning sign. Stop drilling immediately, pull the bit out, and let it cool. If the bit turns blue or black, it’s likely lost its edge and won’t cut cleanly anymore.
To avoid overheating:
- Drill at a lower RPM — around 500–800
- Pause every few seconds to let the bit breathe
- Blow out dust regularly
- Don’t push too hard; apply consistent but moderate pressure
High temperatures can dull the carbide tip quickly, making the bit useless long before its time.
Can you drill into concrete without cracking it?
Yes, you can, especially if you avoid hammering too hard or using worn-out bits.
Cracks typically happen when the bit is misaligned, you’re too close to the edge, or you’re using the wrong anchor. Old concrete is more brittle and prone to surface fractures.
To avoid cracking:
- Stay at least 1½ inches from edges or corners
- Use a sharp, undamaged masonry bit
- Drill in short, controlled intervals
- Avoid using anchors that are too large or long for the material
If you’re working with a decorative concrete surface or tile-covered concrete, consider taping the area with masking tape first to prevent chips.
Can a cordless drill drill into concrete?
Only if it’s a cordless hammer drill with high torque and masonry settings.
Basic 12V cordless drills won’t get far in concrete. But 18V or 20V hammer drills, especially brushless ones, can perform surprisingly well for smaller jobs like installing wall anchors or shelves.
Battery runtime is your biggest limit. Drilling into concrete drains batteries fast, especially on hammer mode. Keep an extra battery charged or stick to corded tools for longer sessions.
Brands like DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Bosch make cordless hammer drills specifically built for masonry tasks.
What drill bit works best for concrete?
Carbide-tipped masonry bits are your best bet. They’re hard enough to break through cement and resist heat buildup.
Look for bits labeled for concrete, masonry, or stone. SDS bits are designed for rotary hammers and have slotted shafts that lock into place. They offer faster, deeper drilling for heavier-duty jobs.
Avoid using wood or metal bits — they’ll dull almost instantly and may even break inside the wall.
Choose your bit size based on the anchor or fastener you’re using. Always check the manufacturer’s size chart to match anchor size with the correct hole diameter.
You’ll get better results if you go slow and let the tool do the hard work
Drilling into concrete doesn’t have to be frustrating, noisy, or messy. With the right tool — a hammer drill or rotary hammer — and a little patience, you can make clean, reliable holes for any kind of fixture.
Measure your depth, keep your bit cool, and drill in short pulses to avoid stress on the bit and tool. Most importantly, don’t rush — forcing it will only cause cracks, stuck bits, or overheating.
When done right, even the toughest concrete walls can be drilled without any damage. It’s all about knowing how the material responds — and respecting the process.